As the number of cities and towns I visit grows and the number of things I want to write about expands exponentially, I find myself falling farther and farther behind when it comes to actually posting. I’m not sure if it’s that I’m too busy exploring and experiencing or what. But it seems that by the time I have a moment to sit, all I want to do is rest.

I know, I know, what a horrible situation to be in. As my friend Steve says it’s a real “first world problem.”

 Regardless, in an attempt to download some of this information out of my head and out for consumption, I give you my thoughts on Belgrade and Novi Sad. Belgrade here. Novi Sad next post.

Belgrade is a curious place. It’s not the prettiest of cities nor is it the cleanest. Not even the top 20. I’ve never heard it subjected to the tired tropes that cities like Prague and Budapest get saddled with: “Which do you like better?” “Which is prettier?” Or even those of Paris or Venice such as “ _______ is the prettiest city in the world.”

If that’s what you’ve come looking for, you’ve come to the wrong place. Here, you have to look a little deeper. Look from a different angle. Rethink your assertions as to what makes a place great. I’ve waxed, if not poetic, at least semi articulately about Amsterdam in this regard but Belgrade demands a different yardstick all together.

In an email to a friend I described Belgrade this way; “It’s not the prettiest city I’ve seen – by far. But it has a certain, indescribable charm. Sort of like the stray dog or cat that is a bit hungry, ragged and worse for wear but is friendly and warm despite obvious abuse.”

This place has been through the ringer over its history. With settlements back to the sixth millennium BC, the area has been home to the Vinča culture (largest prehistoric European culture), Thracians and Celts. It was captured and ruled by Romans, Slavs, Franks, Byzantines and Hungarians.

The Ottoman empire took hold in the early 1500’s. The city was then punted back and forth between the Turks and the Hapsburgs until early 20^th century when it became the capital of the predecessor kingdom to Yugoslavia. Modern history hasn’t been kind either if you count the 78 day NATO bombing campaign in 1999. With over 115 battles fought on its soil, this city has been razed 44 times. I guess we can excuse its lack of runway/red carpet looks.

But despite all that, there is something here. There is an energy in Belgrade that’s different from other cities. Yes it has the street side cafes and street food vendors you would expect. It has pedestrian only shopping districts and easy public transportation. It has what you would anticipate for a city of over a million people but there is something else. There is a friendliness that seems to percolate up from between the cobblestones, willing openness, a heart on a sleeve.

From Samanitca & Milan, to Natasa, Nemanja and Milica (proprietress, bartender, chef, respectively, at Djir), Ksenija the owner of the hostel, Milanja, the lovely student from Belgrade Greeters (who happily wandered around with me for 3 hours in the pouring rain, sharing her thoughts on life as a student in the city … and then bought me lunch and gave me a tram pass) and the guy who gave the free walking tour of the old town of Zemun…these amazing people were just doing what they do but they embody the spirit of the place. Warm, funny, real.

To be fair Belgrade does have a few nice elements. Kalemagdon Fortress and the parks dotting the city are lovely and the views of the river are pretty, but many European cities have fortresses and river views.

So with the absence of characteristics standard for inclusion on “must see cities” lists I started to think about what draws me to such places.  It no secret that I choose places off the beaten path. I look at the lists of “next top destinations” and go the other direction. That’s not to say I won’t still go to a “hot destination” but if I do it’s in the off season (e.g. Iceland in November). But why?

Is it that I am looking for an authentic experience or just being contrarian? I don’t know if I have an answer yet…or if I ever will.  I do know that the more I think about it I see the parallels in other areas of my life. In fact it seems to be a metaphor for people and relationships as well. I look for real meaning in each person, place or thing. Not the reasons why everybody else does. Not because I should.  But because something is drawing me in. Something fascinating, interesting, engaging or even challenging.

And you? I know this is one of those huge ponderables…but think about it…why do you travel…why do you choose the destinations you do???