Here is part 2 of my mental download of thoughts, feelings and observations of Belgrade and Novi Sad. If you haven’t read parts 1 and 1.5 of this post you may want to as some of the points of reference here point there. Part 1 is more philosophical about Belgrade, while part 1.5 is a straight up list.
In the same vein as part 1.5 – Welcome to Novi Sad.
If Belgrade is Baltimore or Pittsburgh then Novi Sad is Des Moines or Montgomery or even a little Greensboro. It’s much more relaxed, with somewhat of a college town vibe.
Novi Sad is north of Belgrade but it has the feeling of the American south or mid west. Wide open fields and a lot more agriculture.
The streets are wider and there and much less traffic.
It’s sleepier – in a way.
Newer infrastructure – thanks to the NATO bombing.
It feels a little cleaner or maybe it has a fresher, brighter coat of paint.
Everybody pays for public transport here. You must enter though the front of the bus and pass by the driver where he gives you a little (1”x1”) receipt with purplish ink, that comes out of this old fashioned hand punch machine.
It’s an easy place to day trip from. Subotica is “just up the road.”
Friendly.
The greenmarkets here are a little quirkier than Belgrade.
The main walking street and square feel more like the ones in Bratislava or maybe Prague but not nearly as architecturally domineering.
Most buildings off the main walking street have interior courtyards which create smaller more intimate space for café tables. Which in turn creates a cozy “tucked in” feel as opposed to broad people watching thoroughfares.
The live music scene is Novi Sad is quite happening. One night I grabbed dinner with a Welsh lad from the hostel. We ended up at the London Underground bar listening to a Serbian guy do acoustic covers of pop tunes. Another night I went to a “gastro-pub” and there was a cool jazz quintet playing everything from originals to Bebel and Joao Gilberto to Morcheeba and the female lead singer (who is headed to Boston to study at Berklee) could out sing any of the women belting tunes on American radio.
The overlook from the fortress back towards town makes for perfect sunset viewing.
The Bridge over the Danube has amazing views too.
They have an amazing music festival, taking place on 8 stages within the fortress walls called The State of Exit or simply the Exit Festival. Created as an artistic reaction to the oppressive Milošević regime. The Slogan of the first year’s festival was “Exit out of ten years of madness.” It takes place every July and has hosted the likes of Groove Armada, Duran Duran, Erykah Badu, Arcade Fire, Kruder & Dorfmeister, Lily Allen, Moby, Kraftwerk, Portishead, Jamiroquai and scores of others.
Fruška Gora and the wineries are 10 minutes away.
Orthodox priests walking around talking on cell phones.
